If you are a student like I am, sometimes it just too expensive to buy new hardware. And why should you? There are many companies, faculties that throw away used non-working equipment. Here I will show you how you can repair used LCD monitors practicly for free.
In the past year or so I managed to repair about 50 LCD monitors out of 60, that I sourced around my town. From my experience I can tell you, that you can have a working LCD monitor in under 20 minutes practicly for free with no profesional tools required.
LCD monitors are not that complicated as some of you think. They are made from 4 parts: LCD module, main board, switched regulated power supply (SMPS) and button board.
From my experience, the main faults are:
- 85% faulty capacitors
- 10% faulty inverters
- 5% other issues (faulty buttons, main board, LCD module, CCFL, FETs)
Fixing this problems is very easy and very cheap. You can get capacitors and buttons in your local electronics store. Inverters are sometimes a problem to get, but ebay will probably have the one you are looking for and its price is around 5$.
There are many different brands of LCD. The most common are Samsung, LG, HP and Dell. And they are all more or less the same. You should also know the fact that many LCD modules are compatible. For example, I replaced an LCD module from HP to Samsung and it was a perfect fit. This is because the modules are basicly same dimensions and same LVDS connector for all types. Sadly it is not the same for mainboards and SMPS. But hey, SMPS can be fixed and main boards and LCD modules are very rarely defective.
LCD issues can probably tell you which part is faulty. So lets go to the symptons:
1. LCD lights up for less then 5 seconds, then it goes blank (check if you can see picture):
- it could be dead capacitors on the inverter low voltage line (high probability)
- it could be a faulty inverter (low probability)
- it could be a faulty cold cathod flourescent tube inside LCD module - CCFL (very rare)
2. LCD power LED blinks but monitor does not light up:
- it could be dead capacitors on the 5V logic line to the main board (high probability)
- it could be faulty main board (very rare)
- it could be a dead LCD module (very rare)
3. LCD turns on, the picture is fuzzy:
- it could be faulty capacitors on SMPS (high probability)
- it could be defective main board (low probability)
- it could be defective LCD module (very rare)
- flex cables in the LCD module have a weak connection (very rare)
- LVDS cable is defective (very rare)
4. LCD turns on, backlight turns on, but gray or white screen appears:
- LCD module is defective (high probability)
- poor connection of LVDS cable (very rare)
5. LCD emmits strange buzz sounds:
- dead capacitors or inverters (high probability)
- faulty CCFL (low probability)
6. LCD works ok, but sometimes it seems like that buttons are pressed for no reason (OSD menu appears):
- faulty buttons (high probability)
- faulty main board (very rare)
7. LCD appears to be completly dead (no LED signal light)
- it could be faulty capacitors on the 5V logic line (high probability)
- it could be the fuse on SMPS (rare and probably for a reason)
- it could be faulty main board (very rare)
- it could be faulty capacitors on the 5V logic line (high probability)
- it could be the fuse on SMPS (rare and probably for a reason)
- it could be faulty main board (very rare)
These simptoms can tell you very much of your fault. Now lets beggin with our dissasembly... I had a 17" Samsung monitor, with an issue number 1.
LCDs are encased in plastic housing which is hold together with few screws and a click sistem. This is probably the tricky part of disassembly. When you remove the housing, carefully remove the LCD module. But before you proceed, unplug the CCFL cables from the SMPS board that hide behind a metal shield.
| Metal shield |
| Unplug these cables |
When you are finished with CCFL cables, unscrew the LCD module and carefully unplug LVDS cable from the module. Now you have a full view of the main board and SMPS.
| Electronics |
BE CAREFULL! The big capacitor on the mains voltage line on SMPS could still be charged. So make sure you discharge it before proceeding.
Now that you are done with that, unscrew the SMPS and look for faults. In most cases a dead capacitor is visible. But if there is no visual sign of a fault, replace all capacitors on the SMPS. This will fix all your problems in most cases. I also recomend that you replace all capacitors on voltage lines on SMPS even if they appear to be good.
| SMPS |
| Faulty capacitor here is visible |
Next use your multimeter and measure the resistence of high voltage side of the inverter. In my case the high voltage side of the inverter shows about 620 Ohms on both of the inverters. Because values on the both inverters are the same, I can assume inverters are OK. But if the value varries between the two inverters, the one with lower value is faulty. So you will have to replace it. You will most likely find inverters on ebay.
FETs can sometimes be faulty too, but it is very rare. If you can see cosmetic fault of overheating, try replacing them too.
| SMPS botton |
| High voltage side of the inverters |
| Button board |
When you are done, put everithing back together, except for the plastic housing. Now you can plug your LCD to the mains and see if you get a NO SIGNAL screen for more than 10 seconds on your LCD.
| LCD appears to work :) |
Now that everything seems to be OK, put the plastic housing back on, plug your LCD to a computer an leave it running for an hour. If no problems will accour. Then the LCD is fixed :)
| Now you have a new LCD monitor for 0.15$, the cost of a capacitor |
If capacitors are the case, the success rate is allmost 100%. If you diagnosed other faults, like main board fault, LCD module fault or CCFL fault, the cost of the repair is too high and you will have to search for another LCD monitor. Don't forget to store your working parts from a busted LCD monitor, becase they might come in handy if you try to fix some other LCD monitors.
Here you can see some other pictures of faults:
| Faulty capacitors |
| Inverter from an 19" Samsung, faulty high voltage side CD |
| Faulty main board - no visible sign of a fault. Tried to change voltage regulators but no luck... |
If you end up with different working parts of different LCD monitors and all the same size, lets say 19". With a little knowledge and some spare time, you can put together a working LCD monitor. But you will have to make your own housing, becase the SMPS and the main board will probably not fit in the original housing. That's how I made a 19" LCD monitor in my workroom, made from a 19" Samsung LCD module and button board from Samsung, SMPS from Dell and main board from HP monitor. But this will require some more electronics skills, because SMPS and main board power connector is in most cases different.
I hope this post helped some of your problems out there. If you have any additional questions, fell free to contact me by e-mail.
I hope this post helped some of your problems out there. If you have any additional questions, fell free to contact me by e-mail.
If I could make a point. Every time I run into any electronic device that has some bad electrolyte capacitors I make it a point to replace all electrolytic caps. I've run into problems where replacing the bad caps just delayed the death of the other caps. My belief is that all the caps were installed at the same time at the factory, all the caps are just as old as each other, and probably have the same defect because they were bought from the same vendor at the same time from the same lot.
ReplyDeleteI agree on replacing all the capacitors, but it is also a rather large chance that only that capacitor was a weak link in a chain. My LCD monitor is still working when I replaced only one capacitor that was blown. And it keeps working for about a year or so. But I agree, if the LCD is in your own possetion you can open it and change capacitors when they die again... but if you are fixing it for someone else I always replace all the capacitors on the voltage line...
ReplyDeleteThe capacitors die due to the proximity to heat sources, if you will try to follow the caps that die most frequently you will see that the ones close to heat sinks are the first ones. Besides replacing them there are 2 keynotes about the replacement (based on my experience). First is use 105 degree C capacitors and second use low ESR capacitors, sometimes described as power supply capacitors. It may cost a few cents extra, but it's worth .
ReplyDeleteHeat is not the main problem... It is the frequency of the power supply. They undergo alot of strees because of that and heat is also one of many factors. But I agree to go with more expensive and quality capacitors with low ESR and high temperature ratings. But buy them from a trusted distributer of electronic components, because here in Slovenia I came across with stores that offered quality capacitors.. Ang guess what I got? Plain medium quality capacitors (and were expensive too...) I suggest Farnell.. They are expensive, but at least you know what you will get...
ReplyDeleteThanks a lot for this article. I have been collecting "dead" LCD monitors for a while and will have a go fixing them soon.
ReplyDeleteDo you know how to fix a bright green vertical stripe on LCD? It appears only after a few hours of being turned on.
Sounds to me like a faulty LCD module... It could be loose contacts on flex cables between TFT panel and driver board (try stuffing some paper between TFT panel and metal frame of the LCD - you will press contacts to ensure beter connection) but this is very risky.. you can damage the LCD module for good... And it could also be a faulty driver ... but this is very rare..
ReplyDeleteAnyhow... I advise you to change the whole LCD module... they are pretty much the same and the LVDS conector is a standard for all modules...
This seems to work perfectly for me. Just to note that not all caps fail as obviously as this, so replacing any cap thats not perfectly flat is a good idea. Also, if its a circuit board or inverter issue, you can get a kit with a controller board, inverter and such for about 30 USD - you will need to throw in a 12V external power source though.
ReplyDeleteYes they don't, sometimes they look like they are brand new but they can still be faulty... That is why I agree with others... If there is no visible fault on the board, try replacing all the capacitors. And it is also true, that it is better to replace them all anyway..
ReplyDeleteBut I came across many times that capacitors on the 5V logic line were all perfect, and the ones on 12V line were all busted or another way around... That is why I don't replace all capacitors on the board, but replace all capacitors on that voltage line (there are between 1 to 3 of them for one voltage line) But I do that only if the fault is visible, otherwise I replace them all on the the 5V line and a 12-19V line for inverters. The next is probably the main reason for malfunction.
Thanks for the great tutorial. The probability approach is very pedagogical.
ReplyDeleteHere is an issue I didn't se mentioned in your list:
The monitor I plug to my laptop take 4 minutes to warm up and display. It doesn't do it with other laptops. Any idea on a check-list ? Thanks.
This one is interesting but I think that the problem is in your laptop and not the LCD monitor. Because if LCD would be the case, it should also need to "warm up" with other laptops. Check you refresh rate settings and resolution settings on your laptop.
ReplyDeleteWhat's about the case when LCD doesn't lights up at all and power LED remains unlightened?
ReplyDeleteIt could be the fuse on the SMPS. If it is blown there was a resaon for it... So check the whole SMPS for possible faults... Then again.. it could be the capacitors on the 5V logic line... they were in two of my LCD monitors that I have fixed...
ReplyDeleteMany many thanks ! I had a dead 19" ACER LCD monitor and I was too lazy to open it ... then I read you guide.
ReplyDeleteAbout one hour to disassemble the frame without breaking the plastic ... then 10 seconds to spot the two broken caps.
A jump to the local store to buy 2 new caps (higher voltage, just to keep safe) and my old buddy works like a charm.
Symptoms: completely dead, no led, no backlight, nothing.
Cure: 1+1 1000uF 16V (now 25V) dead caps
Glad my tuturial helped you out. Yes sometimes caps can be in short circuit - thats why no led will glow and the LCD monitor appears to be completly dead...
ReplyDeleteStay tuned.. there will be many more projects to come... sneak peak - remote controling your computer
Thanks. Great tutorial. My LG Monitor appeared to be dead. All capacitors looked good. I checked voltages on main board input and values were really odd. 21V on line marked as 12V and 4V on line marked as 5V. After changing all capacitors, voltages are OK and monitor runs like new.
ReplyDeleteGlad that it worked out.
ReplyDeletemy 37 inch is black ut osd works looks like 8 bit colours do u think its the av bozrd or inverrter
ReplyDeleteOSD sometimes are 8-bit so I don't think the problem is in AV board. Can you describe more simptoms of the failure?
ReplyDeleteI have a 28" I-INC Monitor. The power light goes on when I press the power button, but there is no image. After about 3-5 minutes, the image appears on the screen within a split second (no gradual brightening). Then the monitor seems to work, but I have periodic flashes on individual horizontal lines, seemingly at random heights on the screen.
ReplyDeleteI have looked at the various boards, but have not seen any capacitors that are bulging.
Any thoughts as to what this may be?
I tested some other aspects of the monitor. When watching video with considerable motion (i.e. movie), if lines get more and more garbled. Then, the entire screen goes blank for a couple seconds, and then comes back, and then goes blank, and then comes back, etc. etc.
DeleteTry replacing capacitors anyway... They could be faulty even if they appear OK. Next I would check the inverters if they are ok. Random flashes on horizontal line? Is that like 1 line or more? Different colors or just brightness? I would say that is the problem with voltage that is not stabilised. Also check the 3.3, 1.8 voltage regulators. Let me know how it went.
ReplyDeleteYes, I realize they could be faulty still, but I don't want to replace every capacitor on each board if that's not the problem.
DeleteHorizontal Lines randomly throughout the vertical range ... it is like they temporarily go black.
The voltage regulators are great.
These are some strange symptoms. Could you take a snapshot of you SMPS board? For starters I would recommend that you replace capacitors on the 5V line. Leave the ones for inverters alone... I think there should be somewhere between 2-3 capacitors for 5V line. It is not hard to find them and are probably marked on the SMPSs PCB.
ReplyDeleteIf you will replace those, and the problem will still be there. Then I'm afraid there is something wrong with the main board or the LCD panel.
When you say the LCD goes blank.. .Does it restart or just blank? Can you see the backlight when it goes blank? And do these problems occour when you don't watch a movie? Do the colors look normal when LCD appears to function?
Sorry ... life got really busy. I will get back to this, but it may be a couple weeks. (FINAL EXAMS, Yuk!)
ReplyDeletehello there,i have a same prolem,my monitor just flicks to black and my desktop image,i notice that when i push and keep pressing the button it stays on,but when i donw push it it goes black,does this mean that i have to change the button from that mini board or is something wrong whit it??
ReplyDeleteLooks to me like faulty capacitors on inverter line.
ReplyDelete